eGullet and Market Day in Provence


Jamie Maw, food editor of Vancouver magazine, and frequent eGullet contributor, has started a thread on that discussion board about the book Market Day in Provence, which claims that French “farmer’s markets” aren’t always what they seem. Producers often just buy their wares from wholesalers and resell them to American tourists eager to taste “authentic” French food.

The same thing happens here in the Bay Area, and probably everywhere. The “farmers” are sowing and reaping cash instead of crops, using wholesale produce to lure in shoppers, when in fact the consumers could buy the same ingredients at their local grocery store.

As always, the best defense is to know your producers. Talk to them. Call them. See what they’re really doing at the farm. Farmer’s markets throughout the world have different policies for their vendors. Contact the people who organize your local market and ask for their regulations and enforcement procedures.



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Reader Comments

This book looks interesting.

The only place I found discounting it online is Barnes & Noble ($28+tax).

French markets are indeed full of “primeurs”, or greengrocers, who sell produce they buy elsewhere. Any stand with too many choices is almost certainly reselling. That doesn’t mean the produce is bad but, as you say, it means you need to ask questions if you want to know where the food you’re buying comes from.