Growers and Grocers

The battle over a definition for organic milk has heated up, as the Organic Consumers Association called for a boycott against Horizon Organics, which raises cows in giant feedlots that follow the letter of the organic law, not the spirit.

The boycott comes as the USDA considers a change to the “organic” definition for dairy that would require cows to have a significant access to pasture. At stake is a growing demand for organic milk, which consumers are happy to buy at a higher cost.

But what they’re buying is a perception that the milk has been raised in a sustainable fashion by a small farm. While this has been the goal of the organic movement since its inception, corporations looking to profit from consumer interest in organic foods have changed the reality. “Big Organic” has gotten a lot of attention since Michael Pollan’s Omnivore’s Dilemma and his subsequent debate with Whole Foods CEO John Mackey. Even Pollan acknowledges the good aspects of widespread organic practices, however.

What do you expect from an organic label? Are giant feedlots okay if they don’t use antibiotics but do create environmental troubles?