Growers and Grocers

Whether it is because asians are largely lactose-intolerant or that we do not have that many cows, it is not a wonder that cheese production is not a big industry in this region. It is, therefore, surprising to learn that in Sta. Cruz, Laguna, a small town 96km south of Manila, cheese production is a thriving industry.

Kesong Puti (literally, white cheese), is a soft, fresh cheese made from fresh carabao (water buffalo) and/or cow’s milk. Very mild in flavor and with a texture much like cottage cheese, it is traditionally sold in blocks, wrapped in banana leaves.

Kesong Puti and Pan de Sal; Photo courtesy of pinoyfoodtalk.net

I remember the first time I tried this creamy delicacy. Grilled with a slice of farmer’s ham on panini and a cup of steaming cappucino at a cafe inside the mall. I was hooked! There started my romance with this white cheese. I love it topped on pizza or crumbled in a salad like feta. But I like it best eaten cold with fresh-baked hot pan de sal (a popular local bread) with a cup of brewed coffee. The unpretentious simplicity of it transports me back to my childhood of eating toast with butter or jam, only better.

The biggest kesong puti ever made measured 4 feet wide, 16 feet long and 2 inches thick for the Philippine Carabao Center’s 11th anniversary celebration back in March 2004. Kesong puti-making had since spread to other nearby towns and provinces.

Like many other cheeses, kesong puti is traditionally made with rennet. However, there is a quick and easy way to make this at home with white vinegar. Procedure courtesy of San Miguel, Bulacan:

1. Heat the milk until very warm, but not boiling.
2. Ladle the warm milk into a bowl of vinegar, approximate ratio 10:1
3. Stir, then as the liquid solidifies and separates, press the cheese curds together with fingers until vinegar content is drained or strain through a damp cheesecloth and mold.
4. Put the block of KESONG PUTI in a solution of salt, vinegar, and water to brine.
5. Wrap in banana leaves (optional: if to be sold or given away as a gift).

This keeps for about two weeks, refrigerated.