Growers and Grocers

One thing my husband and I have been searching for in our new home is someone who sells whole sides of beef.  I think we’ve found someone, which is excellent news.  Beef from cattle raised on small farms is at least an order of magnitude better than what the grocery store carries, even those with specialty labels (organic, etc).

After my son was born and I returned to work, I got very friendly with the woman who had been hired to cover for me on my maternity leave.  She lived in Loudon County, VA, and she and her mother raised beef cattle.  They sold it by the side for about $2 a pound.  On a whim, we decided to buy a side.  We acquired a quarter sized chest freezer, and placed our order.  Around mid-February, my husband drove to the butcher shop in Maryland where the cutting had been done and picked up about six big boxes of beef. 

It took us a year to work our way through the whole side, but it was happy work.  This was by far the best beef I had ever had.  The meat itself had an almost nutty flavor, and the fat was sweet and melting.  We were terribly sad when we moved and could no longer get our beef.  I even explored the possibility of having it packed in dry ice and overnighted to us.  Unfortunately, this would add so much to the cost of the meat that it wouldn’t be worth it.  It’s pricey to overnight 200+ pounds of meat.

So, as I say, I’m thrilled that I may have found a supplier near my new home.  For those who may have been curious about buying a whole side of beef, but have been a little shy, here are some guidelines based on my own experience.  I don’t claim to be an expert by any means; these are just some aspects of the purchase that are probably not familiar to anyone who normally buys their steak on a Styrofoam tray wrapped in plastic.

• Finding someone who sells whole sides may seem a little daunting.  After all, we don’t all go on maternity leave and hire a contractor to replace us who happens to raise beef cattle as a hobby.  However, if you ask around at farmer’s markets, or in the Community Supported Agriculture community, you’ll often find a source, or someone who knows one.  Here’s a link to Local Harvest’s CSA page, as a starting point.  There’s also a website called eatwild.com that can point you to local suppliers of grass fed beef.
• Once you find your source, ask if you can pay a visit to the farm.  Obviously if you’re squeamish about this idea, skip it, but it’s nice to see the way the cattle are raised.  It’s kind of hard to describe what happy cows look like, but when you see them, you’ll know them.  My friend used to say, “If beef from happy cattle tastes good, this is the best-tasting beef in Loudon County, because these are the happiest cows in Loudon County.”  She was right.
• Don’t be put off by the lack of an “organic” certification.  My friend explained to me the very lengthy and expensive process for obtaining an organic certification from the government.  For most small farmers, the associated costs are prohibitive.  They would have to charge a fortune for their beef.  Of course, you want to ensure that the feed they’re getting doesn’t contain any animal products. 
• Once you sign up, you may be asked for “cutting instructions,” or there may be a standard that they use, and any deviation from it may be at an additional charge. There may be a form to fill out, or you may just be asked questions over the phone or in email. If you’re not familiar with what comes from where on a steer, here’s a fun puzzle that will teach you.  When you put the right cut in the right location, text pops up telling you what cuts come from that area.
• You pay what’s called the “hang weight.”  That is, the price per pound is calculated on the weight of the animal at slaughter, prior to the actual butchering process (although the offal is removed, and so is the head).  Once the meat “hangs” (usually for about 14 days) it shrinks somewhat. 
• Most butcher shops will take all the leftover meat scraps and grind them for you.  The first time we got 60 pounds of ground beef.  Sixty pounds!  My friend who raised the cattle herself used to serve chili at every single party, regardless of the event.  Just be aware that this is not your grocery store 97% lean ground beef.  Usually it’s pretty fatty stuff, but I must say, it’s absolutely wonderful.
• Many butchers will throw in things like bones (for those who like marrow, want to make stock, or want to give them to the dog) either for free or for a very reduced price.  You usually just have to let them know that you want them.
• Generally you get a phone call or email when your order is ready, and you have to go to the butcher shop and pick it up.  Be prepared: most butcher shops are not right downtown; you may have to do some driving to get your beef, but it is well, well worth every mile for the incredible taste, and the knowledge that you’re supporting a local farmer.

Picture from Freefoto.com