Growers and Grocers

When I first came across Commander’s Wild Side, by Ti Adelaide Martin & Tory McPhail, I immediately thought of my husband - the hunter. Just like any good ole Kentucky boy, he grew up hunting (and eating) deer, squirrel, and other little woodland creatures. I, however, grew up on Kroger steaks and frozen turkeys, thinking that all little woodland creatures were like Bambi and Thumper. So, of course, he’s been pushing me for years to give game meat a try. And I’ve always said no… and no…a nd NO! Quit Asking Me!!

But, as I have a tendency to do, I grow a little more adventurous when given “an assignment.” Need a particular nature shot? I’m more than happy to climb down that steep ledge and hang over sharp rocks 200 feet below. Give me a cookbook to review and I’ll try any deer, buffalo, or wild boar recipe that you throw at me. I know, I’m surprised, too.

However, I was also incredibly surprised at how completely appetizing and mouth-watering these recipes looked. Yes, you’ll have to get over that the animal you’re eating isn’t your typical cow or chicken, but it’s worth it, I promise.

Let me just say first that this was a big meal for me… I’d never eaten venison OR turnips… and I was pleasantly surprised by both. But before we talk about what I think, let’s get the opinion of the real expert.

As the authority on venison, my husband Drew said that this was the perfect intro meal for a non-game eater. Most people start with Deer Chili, and, while good, tends to overpower the taste of the venison. And compared to previous meals he’s made with deer, this one is a little fancy for your typical farm boy… but still ranks as one of the best he’s had. And that is saying something considering his previous meals come from little southern ladies that grew up cooking what their hunters brought home.

His favorite part of the meal, hands down, was the syrup. It was the perfect compliment to the venison - which, he assumes, is exactly what our chefs and authors, Ti Adelaide Martin & Tory McPhail, were going for. This red-wine based syrup, while probably pretty good on your typical steak, brought out all the flavors of the meat while taming down the game flavor.

Now, as a non-game eater myself, I was, as I mentioned before, a little hesitant to give this a try. But once it started cooking and filling up the house with the most amazing smell, I was hesitant no more. As the meat browned in the cast iron skillet - which, by the way, is the only way to cook game - and as I smashed up those turnips, I felt a warm and cozy feeling come over me.

This is comfort food.

The meat was tender and juicy dripping with red wine sauce as it made its way to my mouth. The turnips, while a little bitter since we had to use one large turnip instead of several baby ones, had the consistency of smashed potatoes and tasted just as good.

To say that I recommend this cookbook would be an understatement. The recipes are rich, succulent, and come from our land, sea, & air … appropriate for any household, whether you were raised with game meat or not.

I’m looking forward to the less “wild” Pepper Crusted Beef Sirloin with Crispy Oysters and Horseradish Cream tomorrow night. And if Drew had is way, we’d be cooking from this book every night until we ran out of recipes… and then we’d start all over again.

Blackened Venison Steaks with Bacon Mashed Turnips and Red Wine-Black Pepper Syrup

Serves 4

Bacon Mashed Turnips

2/3 c chopped bacon
1 c chopped onions
1lb. small turnips, chopped
3 c milk
2 T unsalted butter, at room temperature
Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

Red Wine-Black Pepper Syrup

1/2 c dry red wine
1/2 c Steen’s pure cane syrup
1/4 t freshly ground pepper
Four 8oz venison steaks, about 1/2 thick
4 t Creole seasoning
4 t vegetable oil

Prepare the bacon mashed turnips: Heat a medium saucepan over medium heat. Add the bacon and cook, stirring, until the fat is rendered and the bacon is just beginning to color, 4 minutes. Add the onions and cook, stirring occasionally, until soft, 4 minutes. Add the turnips and milk, bring to a simmer, and cook until the turnips are tender, about 45 minutes.

Drain the turnips in a colander set over a bowl; the milk can be saved if you like. Return the turnips to the pan and add the butter, salt, and pepper. Stir vigorously with a heavy wooden spoon until roughly mashed. Keep warm until ready to serve.

Prepare the red wine-black pepper syrup: Combine the wine and cane syrup in a small saucepan and bring to a simmer over medium heat. Reduce the heat to medium-low and simmer gently until reduced by two-thirds, about 18 minutes. Remove from heat, stir in the pepper, and let cool to room temperature before serving.

Pat the venison steaks dry with kitchen towels (paper towels will stick to the meat). Sprinkle the Creole seasoning on both sides of the steaks. Heat a large cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat until it is very hot and just smoking, 4 to 5 minutes. Add the oil, swirling to coat the bottom of the skillet. Add the steaks and sear until dark brown, 3 to 4 minutes. Turn the steaks over, reduce the heat to medium, and sear for 3 to 4 minutes for medium-rare. Transfer the steaks to a platter and let rest for 5 to 10 minutes. Serve the steaks drizzled with the sauce, with the turnips alongside.